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First, apply light torque (as you practiced in the previous exercises) to the two pin cylinder and gently feel each pin. Apply very light torque while energetically moving the sawtooth rake in and out of the keyway. The Peterson "Reach" deep curve pick works well for this keyway, pivoting from the bottom of the keyway at the front. While a fairly wide range of torque will sometimes pick these locks, try find the lightest torque that works. When you've mastered the SX locks, try the "Schlage SC" keyway locks. Once you've mastered the AR1 keyway locks, repeat exercises 2 through 6 with the "Ilco SX" keyway locks. Again, continue with the AR1 locks. Finally, for a real challenge, try the Yale "Y1" keyway locks. It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted. Raking, in contrast, is a class of picking techniques in which several pin stack may be set at the shear line simultaneously.

If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, you may have an overset pin instead. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset. Do not push up hard against the pins; use just enough pressure to cause the pin stacks to jump. Apply some torque to the plug and feel the two pin stacks with your pick. Get in the habit of making a systematic "inventory" of the states of the pin stacks after you set each new pin. And I’m sorry that our facilities do not allow you to sit on the floor and to get sort of in the right relaxed, awake position. Some high security locks, such as those manufactured by Abloy and Abus, use round disk tumblers that are rotated into position by a specially designed key bitted with angled cuts corresponding to each tumbler. The Primus sidebar is keyed by additional side tumblers that engage a secondary bitting cut into the side of the key.

Overset/binding. The cut in the pin stack is past the shear line. While this might have gotten the lock open, you just as easily might have pushed the cut past the shear line entirely, preventing the lock from opening altogether. If you're having trouble, you may be pushing adjacent pins up past the shear line as you pick a pin, causing them to be overset even before they start to bind. This will overset the pin. For this exercise, you'll be using the two pin AR1 lock. Continue with the AR1 lock board. For this exercise, you'll be continuing with the two pin AR1 lock. Congratulations, you've picked the (two pin) lock. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over. You’ll find, therefore, that if you get with reality, all sorts of illusions disappear. So when you get motion-time is only a measure of motion-we begin to think about bits of motion and we forget we did that. Now someone makes a shot, and we either know the direction and force exactly or are allowed to measure the cue ball’s position and velocity exactly shortly after the shot.

As you progress, you should know the state of the lock at all times: which pins are set, which aren't, which one is binding. You should always know which pin you're working on at any given time. Learn to pick this lock one pin at a time. In general, wafer lock picking employs the same techniques and tools as those used for pin tumbler locks. The first case is billiards, and we’ll consider a completely idealised billiard table: completely smooth, flat and rigid, completely round balls with completely known properties (so how elastic they are etc), what is billiards and the same for the cushions. Tubular locks suffer from the same manufacturing imperfections as other locks and so can be picked with essentially the same techniques. These locks add a new challenge: maneuvering the pick. This keyway is more "open" than the Arrow, and there aren't really any "platforms" on which to pivot your pick.